bought this used with 160k on it a few months ago. Noticed that the Coolant crossover pipe O’rings needed to be replaced since there was some leakage from it. There was oil leaking from both valve covers as well as the Spark plug coils.. I went ahead and replaced the seals for the coil packs, spark plugs, rtv’d with new gaskets both valve covers, replaced plenum gaskets, crossover pipe oring, also when i removed the throttle Body, i replaced that gasket as well. My question is when i took the throttle body off to replace the gasket, Am i supposed to do a factory relearn on that to find the best idle again if that makes since?

Hey guys, new here and were Subaru owners as well. Wife and i have a 13 and 16 year 2.5 legacy and outback. Im mechanically inclined for the most part but keep youtube definitely in my back pocket to Get deeper into things. Looking forward to gathering great info from you guys!

2013 Outback 3.6R. Last year I replaced my brake and tail lights with LED bulbs. It wound up setting off a bunch of codes. A local mechanic replaced the brake switch and it happened again. Initially I didn’t think about the LED and realized that was the source of my issue. I went back to standard brake light bulbs, cleared the codes and it’s been fine ever since. One remaining issue, the cruise control does not work. It will go on but the speed will not set. Fuse appears to be ok. Any ideas?

Hi Guys, really great to sign up. I was gonna ask a question or two relating to my 2016 Outback? I’ve had the car for a couple of years now and have always noticed a kind of surge/ misfire like symptom at about 2100 rpm???? There’s 70k miles on it and I had all fluids changed at 60k. Any thoughts

Hello from Manitoba, Canada I have a 2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R with 230,970 km. A year ago I started experiencing bad torque bind when turning at slow speeds. I changed the fluid in both diffs, I dropped the pan of the CVT and changed the fluid as well as the filter. The fluid I used was Idemitsu CVTF Type SB2 . I also changed both rear wheel hub assemblies because the bearing was shot on one side. None of that made a difference so I dropped the CVT pan again, and changed the torque converter lock-up solenoid on the valve body with a replacement from Dorman. That also didn’t fix it, although since then I have talked to a mechanic who said that they have no luck with those aftermarket solenoids. There is no torque bind when I put it in FWD mode. I am not getting any transmission or AWD related codes. From reading on Subaru forums online, people with similar issues seem to fix it by putting in a new valve body. From what I understand the problem is not caused by a stuck AWD transfer clutch because it does release when in FWD mode. How do I pinpoint wether it is the valve body, the TCM, or other things I am not aware of? When I take it to a mechanic up here in Manitoba they either tell me the torque bind is not that bad, “normal for a Subaru”, or they want to sell me a new transmission, or they just don’t want to work on it. Please help.