A couple things stand out to me here. The fact that clearing ECU memory temporarily restores power makes me lean more toward an AVCS/VVT control issue than a knock sensor. A bad knock sensor usually causes more consistent timing retard rather than “works fine until higher RPM then comes back.” I’d probably check these first before throwing parts at it: • AVCS oil control solenoids sticking intermittently • AVCS banjo bolt filters clogged/restricted • Cam gear/phaser sticking internally • Oil pressure/oil flow issue to the AVCS system Your left/right AVCS graph also looks uneven below ~2500 RPM, which could definitely cause the low-end torque loss you’re describing. If IAM is dropping or knock correction is heavily negative around 2500–3500 RPM, the ECU may be pulling timing hard. But sometimes unstable AVCS operation is what causes the phantom knock correction in the first place. I’d still inspect the knock sensor for cracks and clean/check the MAF, but personally I’d start with the AVCS system and oil control side first.

@Victor Hutchinson hey, not entirely sure yet. We have been pretty swamped with head gasket jobs and engine replacements l

@Victor Hutchinson your a day late and a dollar short haha, I just sold one for a legacy last week

For the average DIYer, you don’t need to go crazy expensive, but you do want something that can read more than just basic codes. If you’re just getting started A simple Bluetooth scanner like BlueDriver or an OBDLink with an app is honestly hard to beat. Cheap, easy, and gives you live data which is where real diagnostics start.

Yes , turn air , radio and head lights off.. start it and let it idle for 20 mins to relearn idle.

Welcome to the group Victor! Glad to have you here. 👊🏻