We have been talking about checking moisture before watering, usually down around 2 to 4 inches. That is a good habit to maintain, although as we move into the strongest sun and longest days of the year (summer solstice), there are also daily surface clues we can notice on our morning garden walks. The soil surface itself can teach us a lot. The surface takes the first hit from heat, hard rain, wind, and foot traffic. If it crusts over, water may start running off instead of soaking in. This tells us the surface structure is closing up. If it cracks open, the bed is telling us it has dried, tightened, and started pulling apart. This is most common in clay soil, especially when bare soil gets wet, then dries hard in the heat. If the soil under the mulch feels heavy, stays wet too long, or smells stale instead of earthy, it may need more air and less moisture. Roots need water, but they also need oxygen. If the mulch is thinning, the soil is slowly becoming more exposed to heat, evaporation, weeds, and pounding rain. At the same time though, if the mulch is disappearing, that can also be a good clue that worms, fungi, insects, and microbes are working it through. As organic matter becomes thin between plants, those open spaces become weak points in the garden bed. They lose moisture faster, heat up quicker, invite more weed pressure, and take the hardest hit when rain comes in fast. These are simple clues, but they teach us a lot about how the bed is functioning. We do not have to diagnose the whole garden at once, although it is important to notice these clues as they begin to appear so small corrections can be made before they become large issues. This week, pick one area and look closely at the surface. Lift the mulch in a few places, smell the soil, and look for crusting, cracks, worms, roots, dry pockets, soggy spots, thinning mulch, or bare patches. Then take one small action. Add a little compost or fresh mulch where the surface looks tired. Keep mulch pulled back from plant stems if the rain pushes it too tight. Gently loosen a sealed surface around the plants cultivating lightly to help water enter and air return.

I built my poly tunnel from cattle panels, and it has been one of the more useful experiments on the homestead. I used 16-foot cattle panels and arched them across a 12-foot span because that is what my space allowed. If I had more room, I may have gone closer to a 14-foot span because it would give a little more growing width while still leaving plenty of headroom. The tradeoff is that a wider span lowers the center height. The 12-foot span worked well for my bed layout. A person can usually reach comfortably into a 32-inch bed when there is access from both sides. With 24-inch walkways, the layout works out like this: 32-inch bed, 24-inch walkway, 32-inch bed, 24-inch walkway, 32-inch bed. That equals 144 inches, or 12 feet. In real life, I would still leave a little room for posts, side rails, plant growth, straw bale insulation and general working space. This simple layout worked out well. With the 12-foot span and roughly 5-foot side walls, the center height is close to 9.5 to 10 feet, depending on how the panel bends and where it is fastened. With the same side wall height, a 14-foot span would be closer to an 8-foot center height. That would still be enough headroom and would give a little more floor or straw bale space. There are several ways to build a cattle panel poly tunnel, and some are much more permanent than others. Mine was built as a one-man, lower-cost experiment, not as a finished commercial greenhouse where I arched the panels from one side to the other. Another way would be to run the panels lengthwise with a pitched roof. In the design, the north wall can be more solid, act as an insulator and a wind break. I have seen people use straw bales along the north wall for insulation, water barrels with aquarium heaters or solid construction with insulation. For my first build, I used 7-foot T-posts so I could get about 5 feet of side wall height. I placed 1 1/4-inch PVC tees on top of the posts, then ran 3/4-inch EMT conduit through those tees as the side rail. The ends of the cattle panels were then wired to the EMT with wire bag ties.

Last week we talked about what an herb is doing in the body. Now we need to add one more layer. Some herbs are gentle supports. They are not always used because something is wrong right now. They are used because they help the body stay nourished, steady, and resilient over time. Nettle is a good example. It is mineral-rich and often used when the body feels run down or depleted. Oatstraw is another steady herb. It supports the nervous system in a slow, nourishing way. Rosehips can bring gentle daily support through food-like nourishment. These herbs are more like compost in the garden. We do not add compost and expect the whole garden to change overnight. We use it because it helps build the ground. This week, pick one gentle herb and ask: Would this herb be useful as steady support, or am I expecting it to act like a quick fix? A strong home apothecary starts with simple herbs we can understand and use with care.

I'm doing more research into this. What are the pros and cons with regards to maintenance? How often and what does it need attention? I am thinking of combining the kitchen and bathroom as great water. It seems that I need a grease trap and a settling tank. Ground temp in winter about 50's deg F. Air temp in winter can be hovering 40's deg C for a couple months. Design is for 4 people/ household. Anyone has experience in this? Much appreciated.

Opened up the poly tunnel to increase air flow as well as continue to spring tomato plants guiding them to share their space. Going to experiment with leaving the shade cloth on for a bit hopefully shading them from the heavy rains predicted this week.