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6 contributions to Oasis Builders
Before Refrigeration, the Place Helped Store the Harvest
Today we can put food into a refrigerator and expect a machine to create the conditions needed to keep it cold. Earlier households often worked with the conditions already available around the home. Root cellars used the cooler, more stable temperatures below or partly below ground. Spring-houses used naturally cool flowing water. Shade, ventilation, season, moisture, and location all became part of deciding where food could be kept and for how long. The goal was not simply to put food somewhere. The household had to match the food with conditions that would help it last. They also did not store exactly the same foods in the same ways we do today. Drying, salting, pickling, fermenting, culturing, and other preservation methods reduced the need to keep every food under modern refrigeration below 42 degrees (5.5C). Even foods such as butter were sometimes cultured, salted, and stored under cooler conditions as part of older food traditions. Many people still use root cellars and spring-houses although it is important to note that modern food-safety knowledge will guide what can be stored at 50 – 60 degrees F (10 -15 degrees C). What interests me most is the relationship behind the practice. Earlier households often had to ask where on the property had the best conditions, many times digging into a hillside. We can still use those thoughts today. A cool basement corner, shaded outbuilding, north-facing wall, dry pantry, or naturally damp area can create micro-climates that can store tubers, canned items and some produce. A common unit used for garden storage today is the CoolBot (if you would like more info comment and I’ll do a post explaining the use and connections) that allows us to use a relatively inexpensive low power window ac unit for refrigeration. These units work well, easy to add to an emergency generator and are universally used. What place around your home or property stays noticeably cooler, warmer, wetter, drier, or more stable than the surrounding area where a root cellar or spring-house can be built?
Poll
10 members have voted
1 like • 7d
@Jim Flach ... as, being a farmer son.
2 likes • 6d
@Jim Flach thanks. And also, credits goes to the environment where I lives. Mostly, we talks about agriculture only.
The Roots Doing the Work May Not Be Where You Expect
When we pull up a plant, the largest roots are usually the first thing we notice. Those larger roots help anchor the plant and move water and nutrients through the root system. But much of the plant’s active contact with the soil happens through much finer absorbing roots. This is important because the deepest or largest root does not necessarily tell us where most water and nutrient uptake is occurring. Fine roots can spread through different parts of the soil, including areas shared with neighboring plants. So calling a plant “deep rooted” only describes part of its below-ground occupation. When you get a chance to uncover a root system, look beyond the largest roots. Where are the finer roots actually occupying the soil? A plant has one large root extending deep into the soil, but most of its fine roots are concentrated higher in the soil. What is the strongest conclusion?
Poll
5 members have voted
4 likes • 7d
The strongest conclusion is: The plant may be deep-rooted, but most of its water and nutrient uptake is likely occurring in the upper soil layers where its fine roots are concentrated. In other words, the deepest root does not necessarily represent the main zone of resource uptake.
3 likes • 7d
When we move a young vegetable plant from one place to another, we often disturb or sometimes cut its main root while taking it out of the soil. After transplanting, the plant can develop more side roots and fine roots around the main root. These smaller roots spread through the soil and are very important for taking up water and nutrients. So, the biggest or deepest root is not always the most important root for feeding the plant. The fine roots surrounding it may do much of the active work. However, too much root cutting can damage the plant and cause transplant shock. The amount of root disturbance that a plant can tolerate depends on the type and age of the vegetable. Best Example: Brinjals
Watching the Season Turn
This is a season of change for all of us. Seasons do not change all at once. It shows itself through small shifts in light, moisture, plant growth, and even within our household rhythm. Northern Hemisphere Late summer is beginning to lean toward autumn. Mature plants may be shading one another, paths may be harder to reach, and heat stress may be showing in leaves, fruit, and soil. Some areas may be dry while others receive sudden heavy rain. This is a useful time to notice - Where water is disappearing too quickly - Where growth has become crowded - Which plants are still producing well - Where access, harvesting, or watering has become difficult - What should be prepared for autumn planting, composting, or cleanup Southern Hemisphere Late winter is beginning to lean toward spring. Low sunlight, wet ground, drainage problems, sheltered areas, and dormant plants may be easier to see before new growth fills the landscape. This is a useful time to notice - Where spring sunlight will reach - Which areas remain wet or cold - What needs pruning, repairing, or clearing - Which seeds, beds, compost materials, and tools should be prepared - What household tasks can be completed before spring becomes busy Seasonal preparation does not mean doing everything at once. Choose one place where the changing season is revealing something useful. Observe what is happening now, then decide what may need attention next. What change are you noticing where you live, and what is it helping you prepare for?
2 likes • Jul 30
@Jim Flach we normally use buttermilk, garlic paste, turmeric powder, tulsi, mint and few more like cow dung, mutra, aakda, dhatura etc. to get rid of the same.
1 like • Jul 31
@Jim Flach your welcome ❤️
May 20 • 
Herbal Use
Selecting an Herb
Over the next week or so I will be posting snipetts on how select an herb in relation to body type. What I use current is body system you want to affect, primary action you would like to solve, the energetic quality of the herb, the dosha fit and the cautions for preexisting conditions or allergies. These seem straight forward although there are a lot of moving peices. Attached is a start. What is your Dosha?
Poll
9 members have voted
5 likes • May 20
Kaphaj-Vajat . This is known in India. This Dosha diagnosis my Ayurveda Acharya years ago . Find or suggest herbs for this.
Interesting Gardening show coming up
The guy seems a bit crass although if he can grab the attention of many, looks like a interesting series coming up... https://youtu.be/32kQ9Niy7EA
3 likes • Mar 19
Interesting! And I m interested.
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Rb Rathore
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@rb-rathore-5278
I'm just a beginner and the Goal is to be an AI FILMMAKING ART DIRECTOR asap.

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Joined Feb 25, 2026