A new real-world diagnostic lesson has just been added to the Skool. https://www.skool.com/rms-auto-electrics-diagnostics/classroom/35d6830f?md=e37ca921f0da4016b3c74e94315f375d This one starts with a **1994 VW T4 with completely dead wipers**. Rather than trying to follow the whole wiring diagram backwards and forwards, I show how I **strip the diagram down and redraw only the part of the circuit I actually need**. We then use that simplified circuit to decide **where to test next**, follow the evidence and eventually prove the fault. 💬 **QUICK QUESTION:** When you're faced with a big wiring diagram, what do you normally do? 🔹 Follow the original diagram as it is 🔹 Redraw/simplify the circuit 🔹 Print it out and mark your test points 🔹 Just start testing at the component 😬 **And be honest! 😂** Drop your answer below 👇 The lesson is live in the Skool now — have a watch and let me know if simplifying the circuit like this is something you'd like to see more of. 🥕 **JOB'S A CARROT — Follow the Process, Find the Fault**

The little family gem 💎😅 I have a 2018 Citroen C1 Piloted Manual gearbox with a permenant fault code P0900 - clutch actuator (originally had P0920 gear actuator but doesn't come on unless you try and drive multiple times in a faulting state and the vehicle stays in N) So I've kept the car since Wednesday and this weekend it faulted:- The vehicle faults when hot only (Transmission light illuminates and forces the gearbox in neutral) i does log the code around 60 degree coolant temperature but doesn't fault. When the vehicle starts to fault you can make it fault - always changing gear or pulling away hard but faults sporadically if you drive like miss daisy. I have recorded various live data and passenger has flagged it when it's faulted but nothing except desired gear and actual gear are out of place (desired always either E or R and actual is N. Because the box has forced the gear to Neutral) Using amps clamp on Pico amperage increases when clutch biting point in forward and reverse gears and also when gears operated but the car wasn't in a faulting state only recently managed to get it to fault took around 10-12 miles. Its my wifes grans its happened twice on her 6 weeks apart and shes loosing confidence in the car as shes 80yr old but I don't want to "throw" a £1300+vat clutch actuator on for a chance 😳😓.

Mercedes B180 2016, Diesel, Renault engine. Back story, Customer put petrol in!!!!!. Drove car, then engine stopped. Called Fuel Dr, they cleaned lines and tank. Engine ran for a couple of weeks then Engine stopped again. Called Fuel Dr again, told all is good however customer told them to do it again. Car never ran. Came to the garage. 1/4 tank of diesel in the tank. Only fault codes were low fuel pressure related. Has a long cranking time, varies from 2-10sec. Did a Picoscope capture on fuel tank, 3 phase motor and all good. Did Picosope on injector using Amp clamp and all injectors are good. Did an injector leak off test. small amount of diesel going to the vials. Removed fuel intake line to fuel filter, primed tank pump to remove excess fuel. Changed fuel filter put 6ltrs of diesel in tank and primed the pump and filter. All good. Pressure at high pressure fuel pump on start is approx 500bar then goes to 250-300bar. Then engine stops. Pressure at high pressure fuel pump drops to 0bar in approx 1 min. Checked fuel at injectors and there is fuel and pressure. Changed high pressure fuel pump and timing belt (was due a change). Told ECU new high pressure fuel pump. Reset adaptive values. Still the same, starts and runs for 2 sec then stops with various cranking times Difference after new high pressure fuel pump and timing belt is there are no fault code present, alternator appears not to be giving out a charge. Sounds and feels like the engine is being told to stop after it start. Q. Could alternator no lin signal cause that? Other ideas beside new injectors? Going to do a injector amp and voltage check tomorrow.

Got a bit of head scratcher with water in fuel fault code putting service light on . Code in vehicle ecu is p2264 Sensor circuit open , Looking information on Bosch it’s is linked to fuel heater on fuel filter ( found 25 amp fuse blown on this circuit) fixed no difference The three wire water in fuel sensor isn’t fitted to this vehicle just pushed into blank We got battery voltage earth and around 11 odd volts on third wire . Reg : PF16EYK

After the post I put in the WhatsApp group ID had a bad cam signal were it would drop out then come back fine so today I had more time to diagnose it properly so I disconnected the plug to do a grab test to find the nice green stuff after a good clean put back and tested on the scope had it running about 20 mins and not one drop out and no engine mil light on