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The DIY HVAC Community

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2 contributions to The DIY HVAC Community
Help on AC consistently running and takes long time to cool home
I’m looking for some advice on a strange issue with my approximately 30-year-old central HVAC system. When I lower the thermostat by 1–2 degrees, the air conditioner will run continuously for a very long time before it finally reaches the new set temperature. For example, if I change the thermostat from 76°F to 75°F, it may eventually reach 75°F, but the AC keeps running even after the thermostat shows it has reached the set point. I’ve also noticed that the house feels much colder than the thermostat setting while it’s still running. The really confusing part is this: if I then raise the thermostat back up to 76°F, the AC immediately shuts off—even though the thermostat may now show the room temperature is 73°F. That doesn’t seem to make sense to me. Has anyone experienced something similar? What are the most likely things I should check or have inspected? Could this be a thermostat issue, a sensor problem, an airflow issue, or something else? The system is about 30 years old, but it still cools the house. I’m just trying to understand why it seems to overcool and why it won’t shut off until I manually increase the thermostat setting. Any advice or troubleshooting suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
0 likes • 10d
Since the Ecobee fixed your immediate thermostat problem, I’d also look at the rest of the house and air distribution system if you want to improve comfort and reduce long runtimes. I recently went through this pretty extensively on my own home and had good results by focusing on airflow and air leakage rather than just the equipment itself. What helped me most was: • Sealing the supply registers and return grilles so they weren’t pulling or dumping air into wall and ceiling cavities. • Checking and sealing accessible duct connections, especially in the attic. • Making sure the return-air path was unrestricted and the filter setup wasn’t creating unnecessary resistance. • Inspecting areas where attic or outside air could leak into the conditioned space. • Using an Ecobee to get better temperature control and to better understand system runtime and indoor temperature behavior. • Looking at the house as part of the HVAC system—windows, solar gain, attic heat, insulation, and general air leakage all affect how long the AC has to run. I also had a blower-door test done, which was very useful because it gave me an actual measurement of how leaky the house was instead of guessing. From there I could target the leaks and improve the envelope. The biggest takeaway from my project has been that the AC unit is only one part of the system. Improving duct sealing, return airflow, controls, and the building envelope can make a noticeable difference in comfort and runtime even without replacing the equipment.
Before Replacing the HVAC, I Fixed the House—and It Worked
I wanted to share a DIY HVAC success story from our home in Central Florida. We have a 1,775-square-foot house with a 3-ton, single-stage Bryant system. For a long time, the house never seemed to perform as well as it should. The AC would run short cycles, humidity was inconsistent, some rooms were uncomfortable, and the system seemed to struggle even though it was technically cooling. Instead of immediately replacing the equipment, I started collecting data. I installed an Ecobee thermostat and placed multiple temperature and humidity sensors throughout the house, including the bathrooms, bedrooms, living areas, garage, and attic. I also used a thermal camera, an anemometer, a manometer, and temperature probes to start identifying where the house and duct system were losing performance. Here is what we found: • Several supply registers and return grilles were leaking air around the drywall openings. • The fireplace chase was open to the attic and allowing hot, humid attic air into the conditioned space. • Bathroom exhaust ducts and exterior terminations had damper and sealing issues. • The kitchen range hood had been running continuously and was depressurizing the house. • Some attic insulation had been disturbed or compressed. • The AC blower speed had a major effect on both temperature control and humidity. • The garage door, wall penetrations, and other envelope areas also needed attention. We sealed the supply and return openings, sealed the fireplace chase from above and below, corrected the bathroom exhaust venting, installed proper exterior dampers, sealed penetrations, and stopped running the range hood continuously. We also tested different blower settings instead of assuming the highest airflow was automatically best. The results have been significant. The house now feels noticeably colder and more comfortable at the same thermostat setting. The AC cycles are more stable, room-to-room temperatures are more consistent, and the humidity is under better control. We are comfortable around 72°F without needing a separate whole-house dehumidifier.
1 like • Jul 30
@Jason Millsap I started with a few inexpensive sensors so I could see what the system was actually doing instead of relying only on how the rooms felt. The tools I used were: - Govee temperature and humidity sensors - TempPro Bluetooth temperature and humidity sensors - Ecobee thermostat data - Beestat for runtime and temperature tracking - Infrared thermometer and thermal camera Based on what I found in my own house, I would start inside the conditioned space before doing much in the attic. First, remove the supply registers and return grilles and seal the gaps between the metal boots and the drywall. Those openings can leak conditioned air into wall cavities or pull hot, humid air into the house. Next, check the bathroom exhaust fan. Make sure the housing is sealed to the ceiling, the backdraft damper works, and the duct is actually connected and vented outdoors rather than dumping into the attic. After those items are addressed, then move into the attic and inspect the ductwork. Sharp flex-duct bends, kinks, compression, sagging runs, loose connections, and poorly supported duct can all significantly reduce airflow. Flex duct should be pulled reasonably tight and should not be forced around sharp turns. For sensor placement, I would put one near the main return, one in the room farthest from the air handler, and one in any room that feels warm or has weak airflow. I also used ChatGPT to analyze the exported sensor, thermostat, and Beestat data together. It helped me compare room temperatures and humidity, system runtime, cooling rates, and performance before and after each repair. The key is to make one change at a time, document when it was made, and then collect enough data afterward so you can compare the results rather than guessing. A 3-ton unit in a 1,200-square-foot house makes me suspect an airflow, return-air, ductwork, or envelope problem before assuming the equipment is too small.
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Dean Stumpf
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Professional Homeowner That attempts DIY

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