11d • ⭐️ Training Chain
Training Chain - Week 4 - ‘The Orbit’
What you’ll need
- A happy, healthy dog.
- Food/treats to reward - you’ll be holding food in both hands so make sure you have enough and don’t be cheap.
- A clicker or verbal marker (doesn’t matter what your marker is. Just make sure it’s the same every time).
- Phone or camera (or a friend to film). I recommend filming your sessions to identify what worked well and what didn’t.
- Quiet, non-distracting space with good light - especially when starting out.
Step-by-step
Step 1 — Get a dog.
Step 2 — Food in both hands. Hold a treat in each hand.
Step 3 — Dog by your side — doesn’t matter which side. Start with the dog in a neutral standing position at your side if you need to.
Step 4 — Lure from start to finish
- Start by showing the lure (food) low near the dog’s nose and slowly move it to the target finished position (e.g., sit at your left). Keep the lure moving smoothly and clearly so the dog follows with their head and body.
- Swap hands behind your back to keep a nice flowing movement.
- Mark and reward only when the dog reaches the finished position. Click / “Yes!” the instant the dog is in the correct spot, then give the treat from the closest hand.
Marking & rewarding — keep it clean
- Always mark the finished position (click / “Yes!”) the instant it happens. Don’t mark early.
- Reward from the closest hand so the dog learns the finish position - make sure you’ve got food readily available in both hands before starting the training session.
- Avoid paying partway through
- Don’t reward or let the dog take the treat while they’re still in motion or not in the finished position. If you reward mid-move, the dog may learn “get reward in the middle” — not what you want.
If the dog makes a mistake
- Correct with the lure: calmly place the lure back where it needs to be and guide them to the correct finish, then mark & reward.
OR
- Reset: Simply start the exercise again. Don’t get frustrated or tell your dog off - keep it neutral and short. If for whatever reason it’s just not happening then move on to something your dog knows how to do and end the session on a high.
Fading the lure
Step 1 — Full lure:
Treat at the dog’s nose → dog follows → mark and reward from that same hand.
Do this until the dog is confidently following.
Step 2 — Treat still in your hand, but hidden:
Same motion, same speed, treat inside your fist.
Dog should follow because it looks the same.
Mark → reward from that hand.
Step 3 — Empty hand lure:
Now your hand is empty, but you move it the exact same way as before.
After you mark the finished position, the treat comes from your other hand.
This is the big learning moment: “Follow the hand, not the food.”
Step 4 — Less hand motion:
Slowly make the hand movement smaller.
Big swoop → medium swoop → small point → tiny cue.
Only use less once the dog is nailing the current amount of cue.
Step 5 — Add your cue BEFORE you move your hand:
Say your cue → then do the small hand motion → dog performs → mark → reward.
Repeat until the hand motion becomes unnecessary.
If your dog gets lost:
- Go back one step (empty hand → hidden treat → visible treat) - Rebuild. It’s normal.
Important
- Keep sessions very short — 3–5 minutes max for repeats. End on a good win.
- Use food sizing that’s easy to chew and soft treats so your dog doesn’t fill up or get distracted by chewing.
- Watch body language: if the dog is stressed or over-excited, take a break.
- Most importantly- keep it light and fun.
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Training Chain - Week 4 - ‘The Orbit’
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