Buying a Kiln
Here are just some of my thoughts on buying a used kiln since it had come up recently.
The hard part about buying a used kiln is that for some reason the person selling it often knows very little about the kiln. They either inherited it or barely used it, but their information is sparse or maybe even incorrect. The very first thing I do when looking at a kiln is to check the identification badge that shows the type of kiln, specs, and identification numbers.(picture included of mine) This way you can look up the manufacturers manual and get all the info you need about that kilns specifications. This won’t tell you the state if the kiln, but at least will let you know things like what type of controller it has, its firing range, and capacity. You can use this to be able to tell if you’ll be able to even use that kiln with the type of power hookup you have or the space available. Keep in mind, a manual kiln (one without a computer) will need to be babysat and adjusted during the entire firing.
Next you’ll need to check the condition of the kiln. This is the difficult part, but the first thing to check is the bricks. Kiln bricks are basically the only thing that can’t be replaced, so check that they are in tact and have minimal chipping or cracking. A few cracks are ok, but anything excessively crumbly will not fire properly. Make sure to check the base of the kiln, the walls, and the lid. The most common place for damage will be around the rim where people lean as they load the kiln so check there too.
Next check the elements. These can be deceptive because I’ve seen some wonky looking elements work completely fine, but check for looping or obvious breaks. Also check for broken pieces of clay lodged in the coils. If they are dull or broken pieces of clay, that means the previous owner didn’t take great care of their kiln or clean it much. Bad elements aren’t a deal breaker, but they should lower the price! If you have the opportunity you can even turn on the kiln at full blast and test the elements by touching them with a piece of paper and seeing if it burns, but your average seller probably won’t let you do that.
After a visual inspection, take an inventory of what you’re getting with this kiln. Kiln furniture like posts and shelves are super expensive and most people don’t really know that. It’s possible the seller also has glazes, molds, other tools etc… Unless the seller has a lot of info about that extra stuff, I wouldn’t let those things raise the price of the kiln. Old glazes are usually in terrible condition, almost no one wants plaster molds, and they are just trying to get rid of it so my advice is ignore that stuff or ask not to buy it. Basically, any way to lower the price of the kiln without getting a bunch of junk is good!
So let’s talk price, because typically I see kilns for sale for all kinds of insane prices. The average kiln you’ll see second hand is a manual 3 stage kiln and depending on all the stuff above, you should be looking to shop in the $200-500 range. A kiln with a computer on it from the 90s or earlier 2000s should be in the $500-1200 range, and then anything newer than that will be closer to retail. This is approximated, and for what I’ve seen in the eastern US.
I hope this is a helpful guide. If you have any questions or anything to add please do!
7
8 comments
Trey Foster
5
Buying a Kiln
powered by
Clay with Trey
skool.com/clay-with-trey-9755
A place to learn ceramics and pottery at all levels and connect with others on their clay journey.
Build your own community
Bring people together around your passion and get paid.
Powered by