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Next Grade Academy

254 members • Free

2 contributions to Next Grade Academy
Intro Post
Hi All! I am excited to join the community. I live in Chattanooga and climb inside at High Point. I would prefer to boulder outside, but the main season is over here in the SE. Currently, I am on the sidelines rehabbing a ruptured A2 pulley. Only one more week and I can start climbing some jugs and anything that does not require a crimp. I am a V5 climber in the gym and have a couple of V4 outdoor sends. When I rope climb, I prefer to lead and have some 11a leads in the gym and some 10d climbs outside. If you are in the Chattanooga area, hit me up.
0 likes • May 27
@Ed Struble I bet we have passed each other at FTB the past couple of years. I would be glad to meet you at Citadel, but down to get on ropes before the Fall. Currently, a good majority of my Saturdays are booked up with SCC Trail Days this summer.
0 likes • Jun 4
Thanks Mike. I did some lead climbing outside on slab routes. I could feel the time off when I needed to trust my footwork.
Pulley Recovery
Hi All, Mike encouraged me to share about my pulley injury. Please know this is my experience and does not replace visiting a doctor. I am very lucky to have a PT who is also a climber who owns a special ultrasound for hands. It was determined that I had a Class 3 rupture of my A2 pulley after we looked at it with the ultrasound. Luckily, it was not more as the next grade up requires surgery. I am following the recovery steps by Dr. Jared Vagy. https://theclimbingdoctor.com/how-to-rehab-a-climbing-pulley-injury/ Although I like his approach to conservatively loading the tendon sooner than most other rehabs protocols. I used this site to make my splint. https://www.rocknsport.com/splints-for-finger-injuries I think it is more straightforward forward, and they send you everything but the Leukotape. Saturday will be 6 weeks from the injury, and I am stoked to get back to climbing soon.
1 like • May 26
@Ryan Hegarty good luck with your recovery. Saturday was 6 weeks post-injury and it felt good to climb again. I did hit one two-finger pocket this session and immediately bailed. I don't have access to a 3D printer, but that splint looks great. The key I have found in research is to have something mostly rigid to keep the flexor tendon close to the bone. You are trying to prevent bow stringing the flexor tendon as much as possible. You are looking to prevent scar tissue from forming below the flexor tendon. I was diligent about wearing the splint during the waking hours. I would take it off to sleep, and occasionally, if moisture got inside. I plan to wear it while climbing or I am lifting anything with major weight. I think in a few weeks I plan to move to taping the joint. I am in Chattanooga, TN. We have some amazing sandstone to climb on. You can find great bouldering, sport, and trad around there. The only thing is that it's all single pitch. Lately, I have been more stoked on bouldering outside, but I plan to get back on some ropes as the temperatures warm up.
1-2 of 2
Kevin Kana
2
12points to level up
@kevin-kana-5123
Chattanooga, TN Breaking into V5 Mostly High Point Downtown

Active 17d ago
Joined May 19, 2025
37377